March 2025 The Prodigal Son Returns to Russborough

 

The Prodigal Son is a series of 6 paintings by Bartolome Estaban Murillo (1617-1682), a master of the Spanish Golden Age. They were painted in the 1660’s and depict the narrative of St Luke’s Gospel story, The Prodigal Son, exploring the themes of sin, regret and redemption set against a background of 17th Century Seville.

These paintings have a deep connection to Russborough. Once part of the Beit Collection, they were gifted, along with eleven other masterpieces, to the National Gallery of Ireland in 1987 by Sir Alfred and Lady Beit. The Prodigal Son series was so important to them, that all six pictures returned to Russborough for six months each year, until 2002.

Meticulous restoration and research by the Gallery began in 2012, taking six years to complete. Following significant exhibitions at the Gallery and internationally, these six masterpieces now make their long-awaited return to Russborough for visitors to experience them in their last historic home.

This exhibition is both a celebration of Murillo’s genius and testament to the enduring legacy of the Beits, whose remarkable legacy continues to enrich Ireland’s cultural heritage.

 

Well done to tour guide, Martina, for an interesting and humerous tour of the house.

Celebrating a roundy birthday in Laragh

I decided to visit Avondale for a cuppa on Saturday. The treckers in the birthday party group were tackling the Avonmore Way, Rathdrum to Laragh. The plan was that the youngest trecker would be collected at the flask break in Clara. So I had an hour or so to fill.

The visit rekindled may happy memories of childhood trips to Aughrim and Wexford – across the Wicklow Gap, the Glenmacnass Waterfall at the top of the valley where we often stopped for a picnic and chasing games across the rocks in the river, ears popping on the descent into Laragh, the tiny church down in Clara Vale and through Rathdrum. Passing Avondale, we used to sing the song about Parnell.

“Oh, have you been to AvondaleAnd lingered in her lovely vale?Where tall trees whisper low the taleOf Avondale’s proud eagle.
Where pride and ancient glory fade,Such was the land where he was laid,Like Christ was thirty pieces paid,For Avondale’s proud eagle.
Long years that green and lovely glade,Have lost for now our grandest Gael,And cursed the land that has betrayed,Our Avondale’s proud eagle”

If we were on the road to Wexford, we next came to the “meetings” where the Avonbeg met the Avonmore to form the Avoca River and where the famous Irish Poet Thomas Moore penned the famous melody, “The Meeting of the Waters”.

“There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet 
As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet!
Oh the last rays of feeling and life must depart
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart”
Thomas Moore

But back to the present – today I caught up with the walkers in Clara, heard the stories of peregrine falcons and searching for lost walkers and shared tea and sambos.

Bratislava Christmas Markets 2024

Having been to Berlin Christmas Markets last year, I was very excited to experience the markets again, this time in a smaller city. I had been to Bratislava many years ago – we stopped off as part of a Danube cruise. I knew that the old town was quite small and I had read that the festive spirit here was magical.

Day 1

The joy of the early morning flight was that we arrived into Bratislava early. It was lovely to see the scenery of both Austria and Slovakia on the two hour bus trip from Vienna and our guide filled us in on the history of this part of Europe. We were able to check in immediately at the Tatra Hotel. After a quick freshen up, I started out to explore the old town immediately.

 

The Presidential Palace, just around the corner from the Tatra Hotel, was an ideal landmark. It’s great when you’re travelling alone to be able to sort out the best ways to get home!!!!!

 

The Capuchin Church (Bratislava is a town of churches!) was my first port of call, by luck more than design. It was good to sit for a while in the peace and quiet and plan the rest of my walking.

The entry to the old town was through St Michael’s Gate. It was easy not to be tempted by the very touristy shops along the narrow Michalska, however, I could not pass the Honey Shop.

 

 

 

 

While sipping Honey wine there (free sample) I did most of my presie shopping there.

 

 

Just around the corner, I discovered one of the Christmas Markets. Very atmospheric, a square full of stalls, some crafts but mostly eats and drinks.   Brian recommended the Tatra Tea – would certainly warm the cockles of your heart, but pretty strong!!!!

I missed the text from Travel Dep that about venue for dinner – so seated myself in the hotel dining room – no worries: I was served a lovely Slovakian dinner and wine (€25).

Day 2

Our guide met us in the hotel lobby next morning and surprised us with the news we would have a coach tour around the city. The promised walking tour would follow.

We drove along the Danube stopping first at Slavín. Designed by Ján Svetlík, the site consists of a staircase, a cemetery with graves of 6,845 Soviet soldiers who fell while liberating Bratislava from the Nazis at the end of WW2 and a central solemn hall with various statues, inscriptions, a symbolic sarcophagus made of white marble, a 42 m high obelisk topped with a statue of a Soviet soldier, and on the outside walls are inscriptions of the dates of liberation of various places in Slovakia during 1944–45.

Our next stop was Bratislava Castle, built in 9th century. It stands on the hill above Danube river at the crossroads of ancient routes going back to the Stone and Bronze ages. Built as a fortress in the 9th century, it provided protection from Tartars and Magyars; it staged the coronation of eleven kings and eight queens and became a residence in the time of the Habsburgs.

Our walking tour began beside St Martin’s Cathedral. Bratislava is probably one of the few cities in Europe where there is little reference to the Holocaust. Bratislava was the main seat of Jewish learning over the centuries and it is this that is celebrated with the Chatham Soper Memorial.   Also the Jewish quarter was demolished to build the SNP Bridge. However Pamataj, a memorial to the plaque near St Martin’s Cathedral

 

 

Christmas Tree Forest was a fascinating idea – a collection of trees decorated by various schools around Slovakia, which will be donated to charities on Christmas Eve.

 

A Slovakian Bakery – to which I returned, to sample traditional cake and coffee. Minimum €13 spend and so worth it.

Vintage shops – great bargains to be had but not for a 10kg traveller and maybe just as well.

 

The Blue Church – way off the beaten track and not mentioned at all by our guide; actually she was surprised that I knew of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Street sculptures

 

 

After all the market snacking, I didn’t need a dinner this evening

DAY 3

After breakfast this morning, I hit for the Cathedral for Sunday Mass. It’s wonderful to listen to a language that bears no resemblance western European languages – you truly just enjoy the music of the sounds. It was also interesting to see so many young people participating in the ceremonies, in word and song.

It was gorgeous to stroll along the Danube on Sunday morning and watch the joggers, dog walkers, families, etc share the sunny Sunday morning. I stopped at one of the riverside restaurants for breakfast and to people watch. My destination was the Eurovia Gallery, a massive shopping centre.

Hana Exhibition in the Town Hall – the life story of an amazing woman from 18th Century – a mother, a housewife, a craft maker, a writer and poet, an agent for social change. This was a wonderful exhibition.

I listened to Christmas carols outside the Town Hall by children from a village school in the Tatra mountains.

I joined the “tour people” for dinner this evening – just to be sociable. Lovely traditional dinner.

DAY 4

Home

Malta April 2024 DAYS 6-10

Day 6 Valetta

No holiday to Malta would be complete without a trip to Valetta. From the minute we got off the bus, it was obvious Valetta was a buzzing city. The previous city gate, has been replaced by steps that lead up to architect, Renzo Piano’s Parliament building in Freedom Square. I actually preferred the striking open air theatre next door which was also designed by Renzo Piano. This was a clever conversion of the old Royal Opera House which had been bombed out during the war and was now a monument to the destruction of the war but also a public place of entertainment . Looking down Republic Street, the shopping street of the city, there was a sea of people.

We were promised that National Museum of Archaeology would be anything but a bore, so that was our first stop. And it paid off! It was a tribute to the brute strength of man – the carrying of stones to build temples and the craft of man’s hands that could produce tiny figurines like The Hug and The Sleeping Lady. We were so impressed with just the ground floor that we decided to leave the other floor for another visit. On the way out, we visited The Clean Room an exhibition by Sofie Muller called The Perfect Baby – seven alabaster sculptures of life-sized nude babies on metallic tables exploring how far we would go to have the perfect baby. It was part of the Malta Biennale 2024 Art Programme.

 

 

We had a lovely dinner in the Kings Own Band Club (recommended by Irish Times). The service was great and the food was amazing.

 

 

We hit for St John the Baptist Co-Cathedral. The floor is so impressive – 375 tombstones depicting coats of arms, skulls and skeletons and under which Knights of St John are buried. The chapels on each side are allocated to the Langues (Germany, Italy, France, Provence, England, Aragon and Auvergne) of the Order of St John, each one trying to surpass the others in elegance and splendor. Another highlight of course is the Caravaggio painting of the beheading of St John the Baptist and there were long queues to see it in the oratory.
After a quick visit to NEXT, just off the main shopping street (always hard to pass) it was time to hit for Cirkewwa/home.

Day 7 Valetta

One day was never going to be enough to see Valetta so we hit for there again today. Valetta and the Three Cities seemed to be a popular tour so we decided to hit for one of the three cities Vittoriosa/Birgu first.

 

We picked up our own personal tour guide on the bus, Birgu born and reared and now in his eighties who advised us to just stroll through the city and only stop at the Inquisitors Palace and the Fort St Angelo. Ever obedient, we decided to follow his advice!!!!

 

 

The Inquisitor in Malta seemed to differ greatly from his counterpart in Spain and merely required confession and repentance! However that did depend on individual Inquisitors – there were 62 of them – so we did see examples of torture and interrogation. The Palace itself was a lovely building and the position of Inquisitor with its life of opulence was much sought after by many church leaders.
The Fort St Angelo situated at the very tip of the peninsula seemed to be an easy find on the map, but renovations made the only bridge very difficult to find. It was very impressive. However it location afforded absolutely no shelter and we were almost blown out to sea. We did climb to the top – and saw the hospital where “Auntie Nancy” was based and we watched a short film on the history of Birgu. Our old gentleman had advised us not to eat anywhere but on the waterfront so that was literally our next “port of call”. Super luxurious yachts lined the quayside and we splashed the cash alongside their owners!!!! Food was fine but the service was atrocious.
We got waylaid on the journey back to the bus stop by St Lawrence Church, reputedly the first parish church of Malta. Sneaking in to have a “very quick” look, we discovered there was an organ and choir concert and we decided to wait and listen – really well worth it.

Day 8 Gozo

We returned to Gozo today to use public transport to visit Ta’Dbiegi Craft Village and Ggantija Temples. We almost missed the village but luckily recognized some landmark. It was a fine example of a craft village – many of the artists actually working on their crafts or members of their families in the shops selling. We were very constrained in our spending and I bought some small examples of lace and tatting and two small pieces of Resin work.

Our next stop was the village of Xaghra and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ggantija. This is a megalithic temple complex from the Neolithic era, older than the pyramids of Egypt. The walk through the interpretation centre was so interesting, emphasizing that the two temples were not just impressive megalithic sites, but held profound spiritual and cultural importance for the community of Gozo. As a hub for community gatherings, these temples hosted rituals, ceremonies and celebrations to honour gods and seek blessings for fertility and prosperity.

Day 9 Mosta

We travelled through Mosta three times previously and each time wondered at the crowds getting off the bus there. Luckily we had a read of the guide book and realized that the Rotunda at Mosta was not to be missed. Mosta witnessed a miracle in 1942 when a bomb hit the cathedral dome but failed to explode. Today the bomb is seen as the proof of the hand of God and is on display in the vestry. The church itself is fascinating with many images not usually seen – the engagement of Mary and Joseph, the death of Joseph, the Widow’s son at Nain, Our Lady of the Rosary and the Assumption. Organ music played softly in the background – it was especially peaceful to sit and listen to Jesus Remember Me. We climbed to the gallery and roof – almost blown off. Fiona visited the underground shelter just outside the church.

 

Although we had planned to go on to Mdina, we decided to head towards home and visit instead the Grotto in Mellieha. The little chapel supposedly dates to 409 and the depiction on the wall of Mary is allegedly by St Luke – we couldn’t see it at all!

Day 10 Pool, Sun worshipping and Home

We got an extension in our room till afternoon and decided that after packing we would hit poolside (Fiona had some Jazz Mass practicing to do). We had our last lunch in Porto Restaurant before some more sunbathing.
Taxi driver advised us to take the mountain route back to the airport – very scenic but also showed the amount of agriculture that there is in Malta.

Malta April 2024 DAYS 1-5

Day 1 Mellieha

After a late arrival last night, we went for a relaxing morning, availed of the complimentary lunch in the Porto Restaurant and took the bus in Mellieha for the afternoon. Everywhere, except bars, closes from 2 till 5; so we did some window shopping before finding a wine bar for some relaxation (again). We climbed (Mellieha is built on the side of a mountain – it’s all steep and steps uphills and downhills) again to see the parish church, before home for dinner and cocktails.

 

There was a big group staying in the hotel – all playing Buraco (a Rummy type cardgame). Generally, the games were pleasant and amicable although an odd outburst spiced things up. We were adopted by a lovely Italian lady Anna, who with actions only invited us to stay with her in Naples any time!

Day 2 GOZO

Our hotel – the Paradise Bay Resort is misnamed! There’s no resort, only the hotel. The area is called Cirkewwa and it is a short walk from the Cirkewwa Bus terminal and ferry port. It has a perfect views of the islands of Comino and Gozo. Today, we took the Hop-On Hop-Off version of the island tour. It was a lovely taste of the island allowing us to see
Xewkija,
Ta’Dbiega the Craft Village,
Dwejra’s inland sea which has only cave access to the Medierranean, the famous Azure Window and the Fungus Rock whose fungus reputedly has healing powers and the theft of which would have earned you seven years in the galleys if caught thieving there
Ta’Pina where Our Lady appeared and is a site of Maltese annual pilgrimage, like our Knock

We alighted in Victoria, found a little restaurant, installed ourselves in the courtyard out back and feasted on the local delicacy Ftajjer – we chose the only non-vegetarian version Oink Oink – delicious with the Gozoan Rose wine. Fortified, we started the steep climb to the Citadella.

 

 

We were rewarded with stunning views of the town and a lot of the island. We visited the Cathedral of St Marja before our descent to the main street and the bus trip back to the ferry. I wonder about the images on many of the headstones – macabre!

 

 

 

 

Day 3 St Paul’s Bay

Our original accommodation in Malta was in St Paul’s Bay so I was interested to see what we might have missed. As it turned out – very little. We visited the Tourist Office where a very helpful cailín gave us directions to the two big St Paul’s attractions – the National Aquarium and the Maltese Classic Cars Collection !!!!! Neither very high on my list!!!!!

So we just did our own exploring and found some little gems – the Franciscan Church of St Paul – closed but we were able to visit the beautiful little oratory; a laugh with a local when we asked about a park marked on the map – an overgrown site awaiting building; a tour through apartment land with another local who showed us an alleyway exit from the apartment maze; a view of the salt-flats which unsurprisingly were mentioned in no brochures; the Bugibba Neolithic Temple whose whereabouts even the locals were unaware (now in the grounds of the Hilton Double Tree Hotel).

And with all this, we found an amazing little restaurant called Michele’s who served the Maltese speciality – fried rabbit liver with caramelized onions on sourdough Maltese bread – I think this will be rated my Number 1 “favourite food” of the holiday!

Day 4 Mdina & Rabat

Sunday was not the best day to visit these sites particularly in the afternoon when most places close even on weekdays. So we opted for 2 very touristy experiences – The Knights of Malta Museum and the Mdina Experience. Considering I knew very little about either the history of Malta or the Knights of St John, it was interesting to get a snapshot of both.

 

 

Nothing beats the real experience however and it was wonderful to walk the narrow pedestrian streets, the only traffic the tourist horse-drawn carriages. The Cathedral was closed unfortunately.

 

 

 

We decided to have a late lunch in Rabat, opting for the Point de Vue Hotel. During WW” this building housed about 250 pilots from the airfield in Ta’Qali. Despite its elevated position it was only bombed once but was a vantage point to watch dogfights. Service dreadful.

Day 5 Cirkewwa

We decided to take a break today. As mentioned earlier our hotel was quite isolated so we walked along the coast to the next two closest hotels for a morning coffee. There was an art exhibition of local works which was interesting. We sat by the pool in our own place on return but the temperature of the water did nothing to entice us to swim.

There is music most nights in the hotel. As soon as it starts a couple  take to the floor and waltz, rumba, cha-cha or whatever dressed in matching outfits – here they are in Dubs attire.

 

CAMINO 2024

8 Day French Way (Sarria - Santiago) | Magic Hill HolidaysAs a very young child, I remember my granny bringing me on a pilgrimage to Knock. The long train ride, the station in Claremorris and transferring to the bus, walking around singing hymns, they are still very clear memories.  In more recent times, it was the Camino that grabbed my interest. Illness and mobility issues meant that it was never more than a dream. This year, however, new knees, improved health and the anniversary of surviving sepsis in 2014 meant that it was now a serious plan. I thought Holy Week would give the spiritual aspect to ‘pilgrimage’ that an ordinary walking holiday might not have. Initially booked out, I jumped at the opportunity when a cancellation arose. My enthusiasm was further fuelled by a visit to thhe Camino office in St James Church on Thomas St.

DAY 1

Sarria to Santiaga, the last 100+km was the proposed route. Despite the offer of shorter daily walks, I started out the first morning with certain dreads and fears. We had Mass in the Monastery of Sta Madelena, a ‘start of journey’ photo shoot and then the steep descent into the valley of the Rio Pequeno. The enthusiasm was palpible. However, every down will have an up and the climb out of the valley certainly taxed both my legs and my breathing. The pain, was quickly forgotten walking across the plateau with its farmland and little villages. By the time I got to Barbadelo, I was even prepared to go off route to visit the little church. I purchased my CAMINO SHELL in Mouzos and shopkeeper gave me a lucky Camino wrist band. walking was becoming a rhythm and allowed for an appreciation of the surrounding beauty. Ferreiros at 13km was the designated lunch stop. I decided at this stage that I would like to walk into Portomarin, our destination for the day. Knowing it was nearly 10km away, I took the coach to Vilacha. What a feeling of accomplishment to make it down the very steep path into the Rio Mino valley, cross the bridge and climb the old steps “the staircase” into the town. (15km today)

The coach took us all back to our hotel in Lugo where after a fine dinner I was only fit for bed.

DAY 2

Portomarin to Palais De Rei: I started this stage on the coach, unwilling to start the day with a climb. The coach took me 7km out to Gonza. There was still quite an ascent into Ventas de Naron. A little old blind man sat in the Capela Da Magdalena stamping the Camino passports. I must have made an impression as I was the only pilgrim there at the time to receive a medal. The weather was glorious and the 4km to Ligonde for lunch seemed an easy task.  Its difficult to get going again after a rest, but I felt that another km to Airexe was withing my capabilities. And it was. However not much further on Michael and the white Fiat appeared and I was glad to catch a ride into the canopied plaza of Palas. (12km today)

DAY 3

Palais de Rei to Ribadiso da Baixo: I took the coach this morning to O Coto (the halfway point on our camino). The planned out-door mass was deferred till evening due to the change of weather. So with no need to wait, I proceeded through Leboreiro, Furelos to the lunch meet in Melide. The forests of oak and Eucalyptus saved me from the worst of the weather and a cup of coffee and some chips revived me enough to walk on to Boente. the last place to pick up the caoch before the end. At this stage I was wet and cold and so the coach was a no-brainer. I’m not sure if it was the rain or the tranquility of the forest paths, but today I found myself thinking of the three James in my life – father, brother and hubby- the three of them gone but not forgotten. It was great to have the time and the solitude to consider their different qualities and their effects on my life. Very appropriate reminiscence on the “WAY OF ST JAMES”. (12km today)

DAY 4

Ribadiso de Baixo to O Pedrouza: I could not believe that the noise outside my window this morning was driving rain. As we drove out to our starting point there was snow/sleet around the edges of the fields. There was little admiring scenery today – the main purpose was just to walk. With conditions underfoot slippy, I was delighted to walk alone and keep an eye on the ground. The walking poles were certainly a necessity to day. interestingly some pilgroms with two poles shared with our older walkers in the real spirit of Buen Camino. I never imagined there could be so much rain or that it could be so cold in the North of Spain. The scent of the wet eucalyptus was amazing and the forests did provide some shelter. The terraine was mostly flat – another help on a miserable day. Most pilgrims were availing of the bars and cafes in the little hamlets to change socks, dry our hats or have some warm drink. I was glad to see Fonzie, the driver in Santa Irene. I joined some of our group to have the much advertised Lasagne in the local bar.  Having completed 15km today, I was delighted to take the coach into O Pedrouza. We transferred hotels this evening from Lugo to Santiago. I have never welcomed a shower so much and a chance to get into dry clothes. Accommodation in Santiago was not as good as in Lugo but the food was way better. A bowl of Paella was a welcome end to the day…. then sleep in a room that closely resembled a laundry (15km today)

DAY 5

O Pedrouza to Santiago de Compostela: The only change to the weather this morning was that the rain was joined by strong winds. I decided to start the walk in Labacolla, 10km out from end. I wanted to be part of that “great approach to the shrine”. It was the least interesting walk as most of it was by roads, roundabouts and city streets. We were saturated. We gathered together when we entered the old town so that we could walk as a group into the Plaza Obradoira at the front of the cathedral. It was an awesome feeling – wet and cold and soreness forgotten – we’d made it.  Some cried, we all hugged. Photos were taken. We were glad to follow Michael to the hotel for a shower and change of clothes.  I returned to the Cathedral later in the evening. (14km today)

DAY 6

The highpoint of today was a tour of the Cathedral, seeing the saint’s tomb, ‘hugging’ the saint and attendance at Holy Thursday ceremonies in the Cathedral. We also took time for some retail therapy (an umbrells was top of everyone’s list), a hearty lunch and a small train tour. Luckily the poor quality of the tour was more than adequately compensated for by the laugh we had.

Will I walk the Camino again – probably not. But I am so glad to have had this experience and unique journey. I will remember the many people i met along the route and the stories we shared. I have received my Compostela cerificate having walked further than  I ever dreamed. My scallop shell, the iconic symbol of the Camino, will remind me of the ‘vieira’ painted on trees, paths, walls, tiles pointing the route to Santiago.

I would love to come back to Santiago, a beautiful old town and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Next time I might take a train out to  Finisterre. But for now, the end is the beginning. The goal of el Camino is to start a new camino, a new life journey. .

THE CAMINO PRAYER

Lord we ask you to watch over us on our journey to Santiago de Compostela. Be for us: a companion on our journey, our guide at the crossroads, our strength in tiredness and out stronghold in danger, our light in darkness, be the inspiration for our walking, our shade in the heat, our consolation in dejection, and the power in our intuition. So that we may reach the end of our journey without harm, and return to our homes safely, joyfully and with pleasant memories of great achievement. AMEN – BUEN CAMINO

 

Berlin 2023: Visiting a niece and the Christmas Markets

 

         When my niece moved to Berlin, I had the ideal opportunity to tick another item off my bucket list – Christmas Markets in Germany. Why Berlin? I had recently finished reading Linda Grant’s A Woman in Berlin, a shocking account of the lives of a mostly female population when the Russians took over the city. These victorious invaders were intent on making the women pay for the atrocities the German army had meted out as they advanced across Russia. I was also fascinated by the way the peoples and cities of Eastern Europe recovered from the atrocities of Nazism and Stalin: now I could take the opportunity to see how Berlin had recovered and renewed itself.

My last solo trip had started with flight cancellation so there was some trepidation when I arrived i Dublin Airport to see flights to Munich cancelled due to SNOW. Thankfully, Berlin was still open despite snow!

DAY 1

 

The Park Inn, Alexanderplatz, my home from home during my visit, was ideally situated for all my plans:  meeting my niece, historical highlights and Christmas markets. I always go for the Hop-On/Hop-Off experience to get an idea of a city and to help decide on where I will prioritise. So immediately after check-in and a quick lunch with two Leitrim ladies, I hopped on.

 

The Berlin Wall is a must on a trip to Berlin, so my first stop was the East Side Gallery, where the longest section of wall (almost 3km) was left standing.

 

It is now a unique piece of art painted by 118 artists in 1990. But there are also reminders of the harsh realities of what the wall meant to the population it was built to contain. I spent the afternoon rambling along by the Spree River, admiring the murals.

Of course, I had to have a coffee in Dean & Dave (a coffee shop chain) before returning to the hotel via the Marienkirche Christmas market.

 

I was there just as Santa arrived (by zip-line naturally).

 

I was very impressed however that right in the centre of the market was a lifesize crib with crowds of mams and dads queueing to tell their little ones the Christmas story.

Foregoing dinner, I feasted instead on the local delicacies – Gluhwein and Bratkartoffeln (panfried cripy potatoes, onions and bacon). It was delicious and the tables dotted around are designed to provided opportunity to chat as you eat and drink – a very hospitable way to spend an evening and soak up the atmosphere of the market.

DAY  2

A city tour was included in my itinerary and we boarded the bus with Isabel at 9am. Another visit to the Eastside Gallery, but this time with a more detailed description of life in East Berlin. She also explained the wide boulavardes – mostly a photo opportunity for Stalin to display his military strength.

We stopped for our own photo opp at Checkpoint Charlie.  I didn’t know that there were also a Checkpoint Alpha and Checkpoint Bravo. The adjacent  Checkpoint Charlie Museum was very over/underwhelming – with way too much information presented in too tight an area. Much more interesting was an outdoor area on the corner, almost hidden behind hoarding that detailed the very sad history of the area.

 

I abandoned the tour at Museumsinsel (Museum Island). While our guide dissuaded us from visiting the Berliner Dom, I wanted to see this Cathedral, the largest and most lavish in the city. How fortunate I was to arrive just as  an organist began playing the “largest and most important intact instrument with pneumatic action in the world”. It was wonderful to wander around this amazing building, almost destroyed in 1944, to the strains of organ music.

 

 

I wondered how you would allow this guy to be at the end of your daughter’s tomb????

 

 

 

John and Carmel had advised a visit to the DDR Museum which provided a narrative of the years 1945-1989, “a hands-on experience of history”. It is an interactive view of the years of propaganda, coercion and servility almost as if you were in the shoes of an East German. It is full of original articfacts, as well as installations that allow you to walk through one of the “new” apartments, to sit in an interogation room, to watch children at school, etc. Excellent.

Returning to the hotel, I dropped into the 700 year old St Marienkirche, “un eglise au coeur  de la cité”. The fresco of the Dance of the Dead is a pretty gruesome depiction of how death is the great leveller. I suppose if you lived through the bubonic plague and countless raging wars, death—and a gruesome death, at that—was a visible everyday reality for you  These images served as a reminder of one’s mortality and were intended as an inspiration to lead a pious life. The traces of paint are quite faint now but incredibly still there after almost 600 years.

I had dinner with my niece this evening in Chen Che, a Vietnamese restaurant with both a traditional interior and garden that served the most delicious Vietnamese drinks and dishes. It was great to get the opportunity to hear first hand about life in Berlin: she absolutely loves it. I even got to see her workplace as we strolled to the taxi rank.

DAY 3

 

Today I walked down the famous street, Unter den Linden to the Brandenburg Gate for a photo opp at this iconic site (very close to another iconic site, the Adler Hotel from where Michael Jackson dangled his son). I walked over to the Reichstag (but would have needed to book and get official clearance to visit).

 

 

Back by the Gate to the Holocaust-Denkmal, a memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, 2711 concrete pillars on undulating ground (like an ice rink after the snow and frost). It commemorates the 6 million Jews who were killed during WW2.

My “Hop-On” ticket came in handy today to travel down to Kurfurstendamm to see the Kaiser-Wilhelm Gedachtnis Kirche, a church which was destroyed in the Allied bombing raids of Berlin in 1943 but whose ruins have been maintained as a memorial to the destruction of war. A Hall of Remembrance houses a permanent exhibition of the mosaics and treasures from the old church.

 

 

A new church has been built that is pretty indescribable – follow the link to really understand its beauty and meaning. Google the story of the Stalingrad Madonna – so sad and yet uplifting!

 

I didn’t bother checking out the Ka De We, the Harrods of Berlin, figuring it would be out of my reach. Instead I rambled throught the market and found some lovely hand-crafted decorations.

I also visited the Europa-Center, the oldest shopping centre in Berlin (almost like The Square in Tallaght!) where I had late lunch.

 

Back in the Park Inn, I decided to have a German duck dinner – the red cabbage was to die for, before hitting back to a market for my last Gluhwein. Well my second last!

 

The Park Inn is beside the Fernehturm or TV tower, the tallest building in Berlin. Although everyone had said it was a MUST DO, the viewing platform was closed due to weather conditions while i was there. So I did the next best thing: got my photo beside it from 37 floor (viewing platform) of Park Inn.

 

 

Berlin was great – a return visit in Springtime or Autumn is certainly on the cards.

 

 

 

 

Knit & Stitch HARROGATE 2023

My October outing to Knitting and Stitching Show 2023 in Harrogate (second year) was really enjoyable. I stayed in The Crown Hotel as last year as it’s very close to the exhibition centre.

 

There were many highlights – Fellow feltmakers made for wonderful company, although they had accommodation elsewhere in the town. Just like last year, it was lovely to sample life in an English town for a day or two – the retail therapy was great especially in the Vintage shops – the excitement of rummaging through others cast-offs to find treasures .

Well done to those who chose our restaurants – the fare was delicious and so different. Although not on other’s list, I got to Betty’s for my breakie on the last day – always a treat in Harrogate. Lovely to see the craft of crochet poppies used to decorate the WW1 memorial acrtoss the road from the tea room.

 

I thought the standard of the exhibitions this year was far superior to last year – or maybe they just appalled to me more – the one on Domestic Violence was particularly evocative: touching and emotive messages embroidered on everyday cleaning cloths/dusters.

The Embroidery Guild as usual had a wonderful display of both skill and creativity within their craft. The Quilt exhibition again was a display of their members’ interpretations of many current issues.

This year I intended to be very disciplined about my spending! – I had a list of items I definitely wanted to buy – attachments for my sewing machine, some Wensleydale curly locks and fabric scraps. I certainly bought more than that but was pleased with my ability to say NO.

I was not as happy this year with the range of the workshops this year and certainly planned to limit the number – last year I ran from one to the next with little time to catch my breath. So I chose 2 workshops.

Not my finished product – mine got crushed in the case on return journey!!!

Machine embroidery – with Tyvek: It was the machine embroidery aspect that attracted me to this workshop, unfortunately the emphasis was on tyvek – an iron on fabric which reacts to heat. It was interesting but the limited availability of irons meant long times queueing. I’m not sure I’ll ever use it. I did get to try out machine embroidery but actually learned more from a fellow student than from the facilitator.

 

 

 

Embroidery Techniques: A recently graduated Embroidery student delivered this workshop – embroidering a Luna Moth using 4 basic stitches. The tutor was very well prepared this time but I don’t think she factored in the different skill sets of the group. About halfway through the workshop she admitted that we would not complete the project but she would show us the stitches – stem stitch and backstitch which I already knew but it was great to see how finely she worked; goldwork and Turkish Rug Knot which I’d never heard of. Luckily, we were given a wonderful little manual with which I was able to complete my Moth at home.

I was delighted to report back to FI committee that they do very well on choosing tutors who possess great teaching skills.

 

September in Normandy (4) – The Bayeux Tapestry

Day 5 Normandy trip
St Patrick Banner

 

I spent the morning rambling around the town. I found an old church dedicated to St Patrick, where an old guy with as much English as I had French, was more than interested in telling me about the church’s history, the stained glass windows especially those depicting scenes from the life of Patrick, the banner of St Patrick from the 17th century and the new sculpture of the Saint.

Vieux Bayeux was my next destination. Although there was supposed to be a marked route, I couldn’t find it and just explored myself.

What a pity our Irish towns have lost their “small town feel”. Bayeux has a selections of “Boulangeries”, coffee shops, small draperies, boutiques, curio and craft shops which make it a very typical French town.

 

 

Located behind the Cathedral, I found the Monument des Deportes, a memorial to the Bayeux inhabitants who were deported for being Jewish or members of the resistance and the camps to which they were sent.

The memorial carries a quote from the poet Louis Aragon:

Qu’importe comment s’appelle

Cette claret sur leur pas

Que l’un fut de la chapelle

Et l’autre s’y derobat

Celui qui croyait au ciel

Celui qui m’y croyait pas

(It doesn’t matter what the name is

This clarity on their step

That one was in the chapel

And the other evaded it

He who believed in Heaven he who did not believe in it)

Naturally, with my interest in textiles, the Bayeux Tapestry had to feature in the holiday. The tapestry tells the story of the Norman Conquest of England in 1066 in 58 cartoon-strip style scenes. It took 11 years to embroider the 230ft long linen cloth.

The famous tapestry

It is displayed in an old seminary and the accompanying audio guide explains the scenes and the history of William the Conquerer’s life.

 

 

My Bayeux Tapestry

I had explored the idea of actually doing a tapestry class while in Bayeux and found Chantal James, owner of a little craft shop, Broderies Bayeux, a willing and excellent teacher. There were 2 of us in the class and although the teacher and the other student had no English, the language of craft is universal. I came away with “my Bayeux tapestry” and some knowledge of the stitches required to complete.

 

The evening was warm so I strolled back to the hotel along the River  Aure.

After a swim and a read by the pool, I headed for my last supper in Bayeux.

Day 6 Normandy trip

A wonderful holiday comes to an end. After an early morning swim, some last minute shopping and a final stroll through Bayeux, I head for the train station. Travelling during the day is great as it allows you to see so much more than just your planned itinerary. The train stopped in Lisieux – I had planned on visiting here until first day went awry. C’est la vie. Arriving in Paris, Gare de St Lazare, even at rush hour, was easy enough to manoeuvre when I had time. And Charles de Gaulle was also a treat when you have time to look around. Would certainly recommend the trip to a solo traveller!

 

 

 

September in Normandy (3) – Mont St Michel

Day 4 Normandy trip
Mont St Michel

Mont St Michel is one of the most spectacular sights in Normandy, a craggy rock rising out of the sea, topped with ramparts, a town and an abbey.

Charles, our tour guide was fabulous. He had so many interesting stories about the geography, history, place names, social scene, etc. as well as a running commentary on the driving skills of our fellow road users.

 

 

 

He filled us in on the complicated 1000 year history of Mont St Michel guided us through the intricacies of the architecture of the monastery.  We enjoyed walking through all the levels of the town and abbey and although there were lots of steps, Charles paced the climb to suit us all.

 

 

View from the top

 

We were left to our own devices for the descent, with time for something to eat and some retail therapy. As at any UNESCO site nearly everything was overpriced but no complaints as the experience is so worthwhile.

 

 

 

Sep 4th 1976

The hotel pool was most welcoming when I got back to Hotel Luxembourg – before dinner in a nearby restaurant. Coincidently the couple at the next table (from Los Angeles) were celebrating their wedding anniversary, exactly the same as mine. Lovely to share a toast with them.