Avondale House with Active Retirement Group

May 2023

Avondale House, Co Wicklow

It was great to revisit Avondale with the Active Retirement Group in May. It brought back fond memories of our family trips across the Wicklow Gap, down through Laragh and Rathdrum, passing Avondale and on to Aughrim. On these trips we heard the stories of Charles Stuart Parnell, the nineteenth century Irish nationalist politician, Protestant landowner and leader of the Irish Land League was born at Avondale House in 1846. We also sang the song Avondale, written by the late Dominic Behan in praise of Parnell

Oh have you been to Avondale,

And lingered in its lovely vale,

Where tall trees whisper and know the tale,

Of Avondale’s proud eagle.                                          

Where pride and ancient glory fade,

So was the land where he was laid,

Like Christ was thirty pieces paid,

For Avondale’s proud eagle,

Long years that green and lovely vale,

Has nursed Parnell, her proudest Gael,

And cursed the land that has betrayed,

Fair Avondale’s proud eagle.

Entrance Hall
The Bossi Fireplace in the Drawing Room  
The Dining Room

On this recent trip our group toured Parnell’s family home looking at all its beautiful artefacts and discovering how Avondale became the birthplace of Irish Forestry.

Avondale House from the canopy walk

After lunch, we showed just how active we were as we took the 1.4 km treetop walk through the tree canopy culminating at the spectacular viewing tower. The panoramic view of the Wicklow Mountains, the Vale of Avoca and the Avonmore River was amazing.

Looking over the Wicklow countryside from the tower

To complete this innovative experience, many of the group whizzed down to the base of the tower on a 90m spiral slide. My new knees are still too precious for me to risk them so I returned to base on foot.

 

New Orleans 2023

Following holiday in Louisiana, I’m happy to advise putting New Orleans top of your bucket list. Everyone should visit at least once – I’m so happy I did. Here are some of the reasons why…….

CARNIVAL ATMOSPHERE and MUSIC:

 

We might have missed Mardi Gras but in the French Quarter where we were based, it was party time all the time. New Orleans is renowned for its music, especially jazz, and it was everywhere – on the streets, in the bars, in the parks and courtyards. “Souped up” cars and three wheeled motor bikes added to the sound with rap blaring from huge speakers and revving engines at junctions.

FOOD and DRINK:

Oysters, Alligator and French fries in Creole House Restaurant, Canal Street Bar – no facility to make reservations but welcome to drink cocktails on the street while you wait for a table. If you miss your name being called – you go to the end of the list!!! Fun waitress was really helpful with menu choices.

 

 

 

New Orleans Breakfast

Breakfast on the first morning in the Fleur de Lis – enough to feed an army

 

 

There were dozens of local restaurants with top class food – Cajun and Creole dishes were top of the list – oysters (cooked in so many ways), shrimp (massive), red beans, jambalaya with afters of Bread Pudding , Beignets (sugary doughnuts), Cocktails (Mint Julips recommended but my fave in the city of Katrina was a Hurricane) – didn’t try the po’boys (a type of sandwich), or the gumbo ( a kind of stew) or the crawfish (when told it was a mud bug). Would have to remark too that portion sizes were massive. Everywhere sold “drink to go” often in phallic shaped containers!!!

MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS and TOURS:

Naturally we visited the Hurricane Katrina exhibition in the Presbytere – hard to believe it was 17 years ago and there are still reminders of the damage – most prominently the blue tarpaulins that still cover some roofs.

We opted to visit the Whitney Plantation to see their exceptional portrayal of the history and legacy of the enslaved rather than the more famous Oak Alley Plantation with its emphasis on the opulence of the landowners. We did pass Oak Alley and its oak lined avenue was certainly impressive.

 

          

 

Our tour to the Chalmette Battlefield gave us an opportunity to show off our singing skills with a rowdy rendition of the Battle of New Orleans –

 

“In 1814 we took a little trip
Along with Colonel Jackson down the mighty Mississip’
We took a little bacon and we took a little beans
And we caught the bloody British in the town of New Orleans
We fired our guns but the British kept a-comin’
There was not as many as there was a while ago
We fired once more and they began a-runnin’
Down the Misiissippi to the Gulf of Mexico

Yeah, they ran through the briers and they ran through the brambles
And they ran through the bushes where a rabbit couldn’t go
They ran so fast that the hounds couldn’t catch ’em
On down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico”

We took a city tour New Orleans and were stunned by the architecture of the city – eclectic is the only word I can find to describe the buildings. We tried to recognise whether it was wrought iron and cast iron. We had our dinner on a balcony one night – a pretty shaky affair!!!

Having watched the film Double Jeopardy, a trip to one of the city’s many cemeteries was a must – St Louis Cemetery #1, spanning an entire city block was where we ‘ended up’. Cemeteries, also known as Cities of the Dead are made up of avenues of elaborately carved mausoleums (also known as oven tombs???? Google the process for a macabre read). Burial above ground is required because of the high water table.

 

Old Man River or the muddy Mississippi dominates the city and of course we took a dinner trip on a paddle steamer. Probably a bit underwhelming, it did give a fine view of the city and the guide had lots of interesting tales about the history and geography. Some of the ravages of Katrina were also more obvious from the water.

 

 

Our second trip on the Mis was a cross-river ferry trip to Algiers, a haven of tranquillity compared to the city where we strolled through streets of fabulous houses and enjoyed a ‘quiet’ meal outside. It was so peaceful walking along the levee.

STREETCAR NAMED DESIRE:

Made famous by the Tennessee William’s play, this trolley no longer exists. It was replaced by the St. Charles Avenue Green Trolley, now the most notable and oldest line. Our streetcar trip was cut short as the St Patrick’s Day Parade route ran alongside the track. It was still an experience to trundle through the business district into uptown.

 

The parade was a bonus- everyone dressed in green and carrying large bags for the goodies that would be thrown into the crowd. We had barely acknowledged our “irishness” with a small green bow; however we soon were covered in beads and badges, and in possession of a collection of toys once our Irish accents were noticed and we became the centre of attention at the corner where we stood.

 

 

CAT ON A HOT TIN ROOF:

We didn’t realise that there was Tennessee Williams festival planned while we were in New Orleans. We were lucky enough to get tickets for Cat in Le Petit Theatre off Jackson Square. The audience participation was very different from home – the lady beside me contributed “Yeah Momma” whenever she agreed with sentiments from the leading lady. With no bar or toilets in the theatre, the audience had to adjourn to the bar next door at the interval. Worth the visit!

 

I usually read something, fact or fiction, that will give a flavour to my holiday destination and A Confederacy of Dunces by John Kennedy Toole was the recommended pre-New Orleans reading material. What a surprise to find a statue of Ignatius, the hero of the book, quite close to our hotel:

In the shadow under the green visor of the cap, Ignatius Reilly's supercilious blue and yellow eyes looked down upon the other people waiting under the clock at the D.H. Holmes Department Store studying the crowds of people for signs of bad taste in dress. (J Kennedy Toole 1981 Pulitzer Prize for fiction)

SWAMPS:

Our bus driver, Butch, gave an amazing commentary on the history of the swamps and piracy in New Orleans as we travelled out to Lafitte (called after a pirate who helped Jackson win the battle of New Orleans). On the airboat trip we managed to see alligators (one right beside the boat so suddenly I didn’t even get a photo) and turtles. The guide’s effort to talk about flora and fauna was continuously disrupted by a pair who were high on something, but the moss covered cypress trees, the various grasses and water plants were exactly what one sees in films and the airboat experience meant the trip was not a complete waste of time.

Would I go back to NOLA? I don’t think so. But I’m so glad to have been there.

 

 

Oak Alley Plantation

 

 

 

 

The Louisiana oak with Spanish moss

 

 

 

Antoine “Fats” Domino @ The Legends Bar, Bourbon Street – All day jazz club. Had breakfast here to live jazz music.

 

 

 

 

 

Travelling down river on the Creole Queen paddle steamer

 

 

 

 

A mansion in the Garden District

 

 

Some locals from the Irish Channel all set for the Patricks Day Parade

 

 

A Hotel Monteleone breakfast – cocktails at the Carousel Bar (revolving as name would suggest) are a must.

 

 

Knitting & Stitching in Harrowgate 2022

A combination of Brexit and Covid conspired to take the annual Knitting and Stitching show out of RDS Ireland. So our group of four Irish knitters and stitchers set out for the November Harrowgate Show.

WEDNESDAY 16th November

Despite the Aer Lingus delay we reached Bradford and commuted firstly to Leeds, arriving before most of the shops opened. An English breakfast in a small coffee shop set us up for the long day ahead. The various Leeds Arcade which were the attraction, didn’t fail to impress us and retail therapy started early in the trip with purchases of socks (by me) and jewelry.

The bus journey to Harrowgate gave us a fine view of the rolling dales of Yorkshire – a surprise for me as I expected the harsh and isolated moors of the Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights.

We arrived in the spa town of Harrowgate in the afternoon and found our way to The Crown Hotel.  The hotel was a testament to the history of the town, with a history dating back over 300 years, its enviable location moments from many of Harrogate’s most popular sites and close to the convention centre where the trade exhibition  would take place. The hotel was set with a wide open vista of a selection of impressive Victorian and Georgian crescents. In our initial mooch around the town (we were reserving the serious shopping for Friday) showed  architecture, galleries, antique shops and tea rooms the most famous of which Betty’s Tea Rooms which still has the charm and the delicious pastries of the early 1900’s when it was founded.

Bettys: Famous Yorkshire tearoom reaches its centenary - BBC News

THURSDAY 17th November

My first workshop was scheduled for 10am so after a leisurely breakfast i strolled down to the Convention Centre. It was teeming rain but that mattered little as an indoor day was planned with the following workshops booked.

  1. Vintage Botanical Stitched Fabric Journal with Ami James.
  2. A Christmas Robin – Free motion Embroidery with Helen Moyes
  3. Giraffe Applique for a Cushion Cover with Delphine Brooks

There was of course some ‘compulsory’ shopping in the main hall between workshops and also viewing of the galleries – my favourite was that of the Embroidery Guild with their display of Embroidery across the decades and the Guinness Book of Records longest piece of embroidery.

The World's Longest Embroidery.

Work on this embroidery started in 2003 and in 2009 it measured more than 605 metres, a new Guinness World Record. The embroidery piece was hand worked by 7000 embroiderers from all over the world and contained a plethora of designs, colours and subject matters, including 3D insects, flowers, people’s names, etc. People were free to add to work during the show whatever motif they wanted.

FRIDAY 18th November

Today was dedicated to rummaging in the many Charity and Vintage Shops of Harrowgate from which a selection of jewelry, dressing gowns, dresses and kimonos were added to the craft stash of yesterday, all of us hopeful that we would be within the 10kg that Aer Lingus allowed for carry-on luggage. Right in the middle of the Montpelier Mews, we were delighted to find Jenny’s Tea Shop, a tiny little  for home-made soup and Quiche and sandwiches.

Photo

We all agreed that Harrowgate had still plenty to offer us if we returned for another visit.

Four Days in Iceland

This trip has been on the bucket list since 2010 when the eruption of Eyjafjallajokull deferred not only my plans but the travel plans of millions of Europeans.

So it was great to set off at last for Reykjavik. Current crisis of staffing in Dublin airport and the ensuing queues at Departure however almost scuppered the plan again!!!!!!

The famous Blue Lagoon was our first port of call. The bright blue milky waters appear a bit surreal set in a wasteland of lava. But the magic of lazing for 2 hours in the steaming waters, treating ourselves to a silica facial mask and followed by  Icelandic beer would have to be experienced. We emerged feeling (if not looking) 10 years younger.

Feeling good after an hour in Blue Lagoon

Day 2 started with a bus tour of Reykjavic. Lena our guide was a softspoken lady who gave us “just the right amount” of information. Reykjavic is not a big city and initially looks so modern (like our financial centre). Many of the older buildings are hidden between the large glass structures of today. The Perlan, on a hill just outside the city centre provided a panoramic view of the city and also showed us the importance of outdoor activitiy is to the residents. There are walking and cycling tracks all round the hill.

From there we hit down to the bay to see another important aspect of life here- the sea. The Solfár or Sun Voyager is a large steel sculpture which although somewhat similar to a Viking ship has no connection at all. Jón Gunner Árnason vision for this work was to represent “a dream of hope, progress and freedom”.

Nearby, is a another tribute to freedom, Hofoi House, where Mikhail Gorbachev and Ronald Reagan signed the treaty in 1986 that ended the Cold War.

The Harpa, Reykjavik’s Concert Hall is also situated on the bay. It is a massive glass structure that reflects life around it. It’s lit up at night in a rainbow of colours. (Electricity and hot water are very cheap commodities here.)

Our last port of call was the Tjornin, or ‘pond’ as Lena called it – maybe meaning it as ‘lake’. We walked through City Hall, passing some statues of ladies who featured strongly in Iceland’s history.

The Unknown Bureaucrat

Free to roam for the afternoon, we feasted on FRESH fish and chips (delicious) visited the Flea Market and finished up in FlyOver Iceland Experience – a fantastic experience: a digital story about trolls and the geological history of Iceland before the wildest simulated ride over the stunning Icelandic landscape – I could certainly repeat it, keeping eyes open more often, second time around!!!

DAY 3

Geysir Hot Springs – the original Geysir which gave the name to all hot springs around the world, is now inactive but is well represented by a newer blow hole, Strokkur, which treats visitors to an eruption  every 7 minutes or so. We were treated to three quick eruptions (“wow” factor especially after some travelling companions’ criticisms). We almost missed Littl Geysir. a slushy, bubbling mud pool by the path.

Litli Geysir

Gullfoss Waterfall- this water fall is supposed to be spectacular at any time of the year but especially during the Spring melt. And it certainly was. A Dam had been planned for this river but a feisty lady, Sigridur Tómasdottir, campaigned very successfully to prevent it.

Gullfoss Falls

Last stop of the day was in Pingvellir National Park. If we’d been here a week earlier some of the roads would have been closed.

DAY 4

We were left to our own devices today. Some of the group took bus tours but we decided to stroll around the city. We visited the amazing Settlement Exhibition which comprised of the in-situ remains of a large Viking-age longhouse – I’m still in mourning for Wood Quay.

We found an amazing crafty shop and watched the proprietor needle felting.

We did a return visit to the Hallgrimskirkja. We aborted the plan to climb to the tower in favour of listening to the organist rehearsing for a concert. Such a treat.

Our trip to see the Northern Lights had been deferred till the last night. However, despite hours watching the northern sky, the clouds never cleared. I guess that means I’ll have to take another trip towards the Arctic circle or else just look at the Tromso photos!

After 2 hours sleep, we hit to the airport for the homeward journey.

 

Johnstown Castle

A postcard of Johnstown Castle “wishing you were here” was probably sent annually, in the days that sending postcards was in vogue, when we holidayed in Cahore as kids. It was a kind of iconic pic. But I had never been there. So during my sojourn in Wexford this year I decided to remedy that. The museum of life in Wexford in the 1700s and 1800s was fascinating, the famine, the workhouses, forced emigration of women to South Africa, and also the models of houses within my ‘historical’ era showing twin tubs, prams and go-cars, statues on mantlepiece, etc.

Best of all was being able to walk the 5km around the lakes and see a different aspect of the iconic castle.

The Doll’s House, Rathaspeck

Actually thought I had posted this and then realised it was on another platforms!!!!! Would you call that a broadening of media knowledge or just confusion!


Any way, at long last I got to stay in the Doll’s House, Rathaspeck where the Lamberts spent some time between their return from Australia and move to Fairfield House in Dublin.
Every visit to Wexford town as children entailed a trip out to Rathaspeck and stories of the Lamberts life there- dreams of fairy princesses, adventures to the manor House, naughty children, games, neighbours,…all conjuring up wonderful images of a life long ago.
And so a stay there was on my bucket list, and ticking it off was everything I thought it would be and more. My words would be inadequate to describe the wonder, the joy, the nostalgia. Even the dozens of photos cannot recreate the aura of the house.

East Clare for 5 days – October 2020

CIF – Coronavirus (COVID-19) Management Information - ConstructionCovid-19 restricted travel this year. My usual annual getaway to sun, sea and foreign exploration had to be scrapped. For much of the year, travel was actually designated by Government decree-often limited to a set number of kilometers from home. For a newly mobile person, this was not a huge constraint.

Naturally, I was disappoint to have to cancel a planned week in Lanzarote (of recuperation!) but as it meant staying well, exploring my town on foot was (almost) as good a foreign venture – so much to see for the first time and a freedom to be relished. The weather in March, April and May was glorious and conducive to neighbourly gatherings albeit across a garden fence to share coffee and sometimes something stronger!!! So isolation was not a problem.

‘Released from captivity’ in June and July, I savoured the joy of travelling to Cork to spend time with my beautiful grandson – it was tremendous. I loved the days spent ‘fishing’ and building dams in the Lee, hurling in the park, paddling in the garden pool, arty activities, make-believe stories with toys (learning paw patrol character names) – all the activities a granny dreams of!

It was short lived however and Kildare soon went into lockdown again in August. This time it was not so easy. So by the time September arrived, cabin fever was beginning to set in and a break to anywhere was needed. A travel planning sister organized a trip to the sunny south east which had to be cancelled at short notice as Covid numbers in Waterford rose.

 

 

However, undaunted she explored more private and easier regulated destination and at the beginning of October we headed off to the East Clare Golf Village outside Bodyke.

 

 

DAY 1: South Clare was the destination today – Loop Head Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located at the furthest point west on the Clare coastline on the Wild Atlantic Way, with the rugged and wild Atlantic on one side of the peninsula and the more sheltered Shannon Estuary on the other. The weather was wild but that didn’t stop us walking around the point and taking photos.

We continued up the coast, visiting Kilkee, sneaking over the dunes to see Donald Trump’s Doonbeg Golf Club (as ostentatious and lacking in class as its owner) and stopping in Quilty for lunch before cutting across county to get home.

 

 

 

I spotted this mosaic work along the sea wall in Quilty.  

 

 

DAY 2: It was another wet and wild day for today’s visit to the Cliffs of Moher. But maybe this is exactly the weather when the cliffs should be viewed – a gale that would almost take you off your feet on the cliff walk and a surging sea below. And while there was only a glimpse to be had of the Aran Islands (no five county view today!) it was invigorating to experience what existence might be like on this western seaboard. The Visitors Centre is a unique structure, set into the hillside and offers an insight into the archeology, flora and fauna of the cliffs.

 

We travelled on through Doolin and Lisdoonvarna and talked about the memories we had of younger and hardier days spent here, pre camp sites and their facilities. The music and the craic sustained us.

 

DAY 3: The country went into Level 3 Lockdown today – no pubs or restaurants open unless for outside dining or take-away, and travel restricted to within your own county. This did not disrupt our travel itinerary for today, a lake drive around Lough Derg. The weather started off pleasant enough and allowed us to view the lake from a number of lookout points on the eastern shore. Stories of a brother’s trips to Drumineer prompted a stop there and allowed a leisurely walk on the pier and by the lake. The place is so well maintained, clean and with facilities open to the public it was a pleasure to be able to stroll around. The weather quickly changed and we hit back for home.

DAY 4: Although we knew Covid restrictions would limit the extent of the visit, we continued with our plan to visit Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. Our sat-nav got a bit confused with our choice of the “shortest route” and decided to extend the tour. However we arrived safely at our destination. Despite the restrictions, we had a lovely visit. There was only one guide on duty, dressed in medieval attire and he gave a wonderful historical description of the castle. He also whet our appetite for a visit to one of the medieval banquet nights with his stories of the merriment and song one can experience there. We had a great walk around the Folk Park which is a living reconstruction of the homes and environment of Ireland over a century ago. Rural farmhouses, a village street complete with school and shops and Bunratty House with its regency gardens are all recreated for the visitor.

Appeal to motorists to slow down on approach to Garda checkpoints |  Connaught Telegraph DAY 5: Homeward bound, refreshed after a lovely stay – accommodation, tourist sites and take-away meals were all excellent. Best of all, however, was the company – after so many months of lockdown the chat and banter was great.
Only one Garda Checkpoint on journey and as I was “going home” it posed no problem!

André Rieu in Maastricht

Maastricht only featured in my knowledge of European cities as the “one where the Treaty to introduce the Euro was signed”. However, it was as the birthplace of André Rieu who created the Johann Strauss Orchestra that it went on my “bucket list”. Late night TV brought him to my attention. He and his orchestra turned classical and waltz music into a worldwide concert touring act, as successful as some of the biggest global pop and rock music acts.

Stein Travel advertise Rieu concerts regularly and I decided the best place to go was his traditional end of concert season in his own Maastricht.

SATURDAY

The flight to Cologne was uneventful and we were collected there and bussed to Maastricht. The Apple Park Hotel (nicknamed Apple Tart by a group of Dubliners), although situated outside the city, provided a regular free shuttle service. I decided to eat in the hotel that first night and was more than pleased with choice and standard of menu and friendliness of staff.

Salmon and Asparagus on Sesame Toast -YUMMEEE

SUNDAY

Knowing that walking is not my forte, I headed for the Stiphout jetty, a local boat company recommended at reception. There I opted for the historic trip through the inland harbor, ‘t Bassin (built in 1826). Some passengers had booked brunch – and it did look delicious – but I sat out on deck and enjoyed the sunshine. The captain kept us amused his ‘light’ historic descriptions of boat life and industry through the ages as well, as the management of water to allow trade and prevent flooding. We passed through Bosscherveld, a modern and mechanized lock that dropped the boat 3 metres.

A riverboat garden

We passed by the river boat community and witnessed their great pride in their homes complete with gardens, sun decks and playgrounds. The favourite lock was a restored and manually operated Lock 19 one where tea and buns were passed to the lock keeper on completion of task.

Lock 19 – Mr and Mrs Lock Keeper

We sailed through a tunnel that was once part of the fortification of Maastricht with his hook lined walls for boat owners of pre-engine days had to pull the boats with hooks along the canal. The inner harbour ‘t Bassin is still surrounded by the old quay cellars where ships used to unload their cargo. Now they are shops and restaurants. Via Lock 20 we ended up in the Maas again and returned to the jetty. I would certainly recommend the trip.

Afternoon tour of Maastricht

I decided on a small roadside café to have a selection of “Dutch snacks” for lunch and at only €6 I could not believe how appetizing they were. The meal comprised of BITTERBALLEN and KROKETTEN (deep fried crispy balls and tubes filled with meat), KIBBELING (battered and deep fried fish bits), FRIKANDEL (deep fried skinless sausage, naturally accompanied by a glass of Dutch beer.
And now for the walkabout:

Augustinian Church Maastricht

The Augustinian church by the river was built in the 17th century and was not open today. Onto the Tourist Office – The Dinghaus: built in 1470 it has functioned as a court, a prison, a torture chamber and an administrative centre. Staffed be very friendly people it was quite expensive – there wasn’t even a free map.
Next stop was the Dominican Black Church which now houses the Dominican bookshop next door to a coffee shop. Both were way too hot for exploring.
Having invested in ECHO runners for this trip and finding them reasonably comfortable, I ventured into the Echo shop on the Grote Staat and bought runners (on sale). I wound my way through some little streets to the Market Square – there are numerous little shops and boutiques all along the streets, very different to the usual city shopping.

Mooswief, Maastricht

The Mooswief statue of the patroness of carnivals announces your arrival in the Markt. In the centre of the square is the Town Hall on the Market – quite an impressive building with a statue of JP Minckelers, the inventor of the gas light, close by.
It was now time to hit back for the shuttle, through Mosae Forum, a large shopping centre again with very different shops.

The Concert

The group had booked the Pre-concert dinner in the hotel so we all met in the restaurant in our finery. After an excellent meal we boarded the coach for the trip to the summer evening concert in the Vrijthof, the most romantic square in the Netherland. I had an excellent seat (row 6) with the Dublin crowd.

They were festooned in Irish regalia – boas, flags, hats – determined to catch Andre’s attention. They were actually interviewed on the way in by Dutch Television and I was included in the many photos taken as we awaited the arrival of the Maestro.

You cannot imagine excitement of thousands of fans, especially us, as he paraded only feet away with his orchestra, singers and dancers to the stage. The concert was everything that I expected and more – the music, André’s personality, the involvement of the audience, I even did some dancing – it was all just amazing. I might well make another trip!!!!

MONDAY

After delicious breakfast, I hit off on the shuttle again to Maaspromenade, this time for a trip on the Zonnetrein, the little solar powered tourist train. The best part of the ride was through the city park, only allowed because the train is solar powered. We only toured one area, the Aldenhofpark but there was also a sunbathing area, a zoo, a deer park and an aviary. It was just gorgeous and definitely worth a visit. You can see remnants of Maastricht’s old walls as well as many art works.


I had not realized that d’Artagnon, one of the famous Musketeers, died in the Siege of Maastricht. We passed his statue.
Another interesting piece of artwrk, set in sunken cage which was once a bear pit, shows a naked woman caressing the head of a dying giraffe. A zebra walks around the pit and looks pleadingly up to viewers. The piece was created to highlight the plight of endangered animals, questioning how long it will be before even familiar creatures make it on to the at risk lists. Seemingly the artist arrives from time to time and dresses her!!!

Save our Planet

Lunch again consisted of another Dutch delicacy – the WAFFLE – you can smell them everywhere as you walk around the city. Two Welsh ladies I had met on the boat the day before said a visit to Wijck and Ceramique on the other side of the river was worth a visit. So off I het across (the very long) Wilhelminaburg Bridge (called after a favourite Dutch queen)from which I could see the church of St Martinus– hundreds of steps below the road, so I just took a look! Instead I wandered along some really old streets admiring the lovely facades with their historic numbering! Amazing! I also found myself at the back of St Martinuses’ church and strolled through there.

Even Echo runners didn’t dissuade me from hitting straight for the shuttle back to the hotel this time via St Servaas Bridge (called after first bishop of Maastricht and supposedly the oldest bridge in the Netherlands, built to replace the old Roman bridge). If André had been playing tonight I might have been tempted to go back into town and listen to the concert free from a distance – but he wasn’t so I opted for a few glasses of wine and dinner and bed.

TUESDAY – HOME via Cologne

Kildare Retirees in Slovenia

Another great Kildare Retired Teachers trip – my first one abroad – and it lived up to all expectations.

Even the Ryanair delay in Dublin airport followed by a “mirror of Naas bypass” between Treviso and Trieste couldn’t dampen the spirits of the Kildare retirees.   Following check-in  in  Ljubljana’s  City Hotel, we  took off in packs to find late dinners. It’s quite a small city so we had the geography of the place almost before bed.

Day 1

We started with a walking tour of the city with Yuri our Slovenian guide, taking in the highlights, the many bridges  that cross the Ljubljanica River- the Dragon bridge, the Triple Bridge,

The Triple Bridge

Building decorated in Slovenian colours




the Cobblers’ Bridge, the Fountain of the Three Rivers outside the Mestna Hisa (Town Hall) and finishing with a cable car ride to Ljubljana Castle which dominates the skyline of the city.

Posing on the Triple Bridge with Franciscan Church behind
Ljubljana Castle

The group broke up  then for an afternoon of leisure. Leisure my eye!!!! Our crowd found a lovely place in the Market Square for lunch before dashing off to the Urban Train (a little electric train that took us around the city again to see some of the morning’s missed sights – Plecnik’s (the architect of Ljubljana) House, the Tivoli Gardens, some theatres and churches.

The Embankment

The river is the landmark in the city and so a group of us took a river ride  and it was amazing to see the embankment and hear the many interesting stories of the past. Plecnik designed most of the city with great thought – the willows along the banks were sown as swings for the youngsters to launch themselves into the water as well as to mimic the women who came down to the river’s edge to wash clothes; a cage hung from beside the Cobblers’ Bridge to dunk cheating bakers; Emperor Franz Josef paid for the Dragon bridge so that his Eagle emblems could be displayed, instead the Mayor had 4 copper dragons, the symbols of Slovenia, sneaked in.

Day 2

What a lovely surprise this morning – clear blue skies although a storm had been forecast!!! An early start (really hearty buffet breakfast in hotel) as we headed off to the Postonja Caves, reputedly, Europe’s most spectacular caves, 12 miles of chambers and tunnels.

Related image
path through Postojna Caves

Luckily, it can be viewed from a subterranean railway that swerves through the stalactites like a fairground ride with passengers ducking at times to avoid overhanging rocks. One could exit the train for an hour’s walk through some of the chambers; however a few of us decided to carry on by train and relax with ice cream by the Pivka river.

We had time for a  little retail therapy before boarding the bus for the Adriatic coastal town of Piran.  A free shuttle service was available to take us into the centre of the town where there was a market square (Tartinijev trg after the local born violinist and composer Tartini – another famous Slovenian I had never heard of) and lovely restaurants along the sea front for a well-earned lunch. Piran was quite a wealthy little town, its wealth based on the salt produced here. Now it is more a fishing or seaside village.

Vinekoper in Koper was our next port of call. This celler owns most of the vineyards in Slovenia and specialises in a wide range of wines.   My favourites, Refosk was available to “taste” and purchase. There’ll be a few of us checking out O’Brien’s and Aldi and Lidl for Slovenian wines after this!

Our crowd went down the town tonight for dinner – lovely restaurant beside the river where suckling pig (my choice) and veal were served with roast potatoes (unavailable last night!!!) and veg.

Day 3

The mountains beckoned today – another early start and another glorious morning as we headed first for Lake Bojin, the largest lake in Slovinia. The cable car ride to Mount Vogel gave us spectacular views of the lakes and rivers.

Sitting out in the wooden chalet type restaurant brought the story of Heidi or the Sound of Music to mind. Vogel is a ski resort and there was still some snow with many Alpine flowers peeping through to add to the picture card effect.

Church on island in Lake Bled

Back to the bus for our trip to Lake Bled with its fairy tale scenery – an island church in the middle of the lake which can only be reached by traditional canopied rowing boats, and a castle located on a sheer cliff overlooking the lake and Tito’s palace at the boat jetty (now a hotel).

Tito’s palace

It was well-worth the efforts of climbing the 99 steps to the Church of the Assumption to ring the Wishing Bell inside. The climb to the Castle was more demanding with its uneven surface and extremely steep incline. But there were many helping hands and almost all the crew made it to the courtyard.

Lunch by the lake shore before hitting back to Ljubljana was well earned.

Day 4

We may have wondered why an umbrella hung in every room in the hotel – today we wondered no more – the rain was bucketing down from early morning. Luckily today we were left to our own devices and many chose indoor activities – shopping, galleries, museums. The Emporium (a Kildare Village lookalike including prices) was a favourite. But we thought a Blanchardstown look alike would suit our purses better and it was only a taxi ride away. The weather cleared somewhat in the afternoon allowing for some more outdoor sightseeing.

Image result for sokol restaurant ljubljana

Rena ( and helpers) sussed out a local restaurant Sokol (the Eagle) for our group tonight – lovely meal followed by a sing song. Great way to end the holiday!

HOME

A great few days – lots of laughs and stories – however “what happens on tour stays on tour” is a good motto for a blog and there were many funny incidents that will not be recounted here. Our guide Yuri was excellent. The hotel was clean and friendly and located centrally which is a big plus. Food was good but different – Slovenians don’t seem to eat at night and many places were closed by eleven. Everyone noted the cleanliness of the city and the good manners of its occupants. Those who visited the churches were impressed with the respect and participation in the services and reported the most beautiful music. Slovenian wine was excellent and very cheap. The city centre is “car-free” and that certainly lends to the calmness. Small electric bus/cars are available free, originally designed for the elderly but now used by anyone.  Otherwise you cycle or walk.

Well done Rena – where are you going to bring us next year???

Western Med: Days 3-5 ITALY

GENOA DAY 3


It was lovely to wake up to sun and sea and our view from the balcony was stunning as we sailed into Genoa, the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. No BIG BUS or open Top Bus for us! Instead we got a lovely taxi driver who brought us on our own personal tour of the city stopping at the Palazzo San Giorgio, Piazza de Ferrari, the San Lorenzo Cathedral.

Sitting on the back garden wall of Christopher’s house


The piece de resistance of course was Columbus’ house, situated in the old town beside the Soprano (upper) gate.

DAY 4: La SPEZIA
Fiona took off on her own today while I sat by the pool with kindle – soaking in the rays. As most of the passengers were ashore (gone to Pisa or Florence which were ours away!) it was peaceful to just lie and relax!
Our only regret is that we didn’t realize that a short train ride would have taken us to Cinque Terre (Five Lands) a breathtaking stretch of Italian coastline. It’s named for its 5 villages which are wedged into a series of coves between sheer cliffs.
Fiona bought me the guide book – so perhaps a return visit will be in order sometime! And what about La Spezia – she got the LITTLE TRAIN and passed the Castle of St George she thinks! Rather under-impressed I think!
Rumba classes by the pool were a bit loud for our liking so we moved to pool at back of ship (aft I think it’s called!!!) and sun soaked some more.

DAY 5 CIVITAVECHIA
This is one of the largest ports in Italy. The name means “ancient town”. We decided today to the “Rome on Your Own Tour” on our own. So we partnered up with a couple from Australia and a brother and sister and their 2 kids from Latvia and hired “an English speaking Taxi” to take us to Rome. To guarantee that we would be returned to the ship, payment was promised at end of trip. A brochure showed us the sites we would visit.
The English-Speaking-Taxi consisted of a lovely driver with about 3 English words and a CD that was played during the drive about the sites of Rome. Price was agreed and off we hit for the Eternal City.

Over Looking the City of Rome



What a trip … it was like having our very own chauffeur who dropped us at the entrance to all the more important sites – parking and traffic meant little to him as long as he got us to the entrances.

St Peter’s Square

A visit to St Peter’s Square was a must – some of the more able- got up to and into the Vatican for a few minutes – I just enjoyed being in the square and seeing the famous Basilica, watching my bag as there are pick-pockets and street sellers everywhere. Our second stop was to the Pantheon, again right to the door. Long queues that moved quite quickly allowed a view inside.

Vitoriana Monument

We stopped in the middle of a very busy roundabout to visit the Vittoriano , a colossal mountain of white marble , modern by Roman standards as it was built at the turn of the 20th century to honour Italy’s first king. Since 1920 It encompasses the tour of the Unknown Soldier.

The Coliseum was our next port of call before the Trevi “three coins in a “ Fountain. The place was mobbed and we were lucky to be able to get a photo without half of Italy in it!!!! Some time for retail also and a quick cup of coffee before the return trip to the boat. It was an excellent trip and for those who don’t/can’t walk about much THE ONLY WAY TO DO ROME.
Almost last onto the boat!!!!!
Lovely dinner (well I thought so but then I’m not too fussy and a show – Songs of Tina Turner. One of our many losses tonight – mobile phone – but luckily handed into reception and it was retrieved in the early hours of the morning!!!! Another story for the dinner tomorrow!