Having been to Berlin Christmas Markets last year, I was very excited to experience the markets again, this time in a smaller city. I had been to Bratislava many years ago – we stopped off as part of a Danube cruise. I knew that the old town was quite small and I had read that the festive spirit here was magical.
Day 1
The joy of the early morning flight was that we arrived into Bratislava early. It was lovely to see the scenery of both Austria and Slovakia on the two hour bus trip from Vienna and our guide filled us in on the history of this part of Europe. We were able to check in immediately at the Tatra Hotel. After a quick freshen up, I started out to explore the old town immediately.
The Presidential Palace, just around the corner from the Tatra Hotel, was an ideal landmark. It’s great when you’re travelling alone to be able to sort out the best ways to get home!!!!!
The Capuchin Church (Bratislava is a town of churches!) was my first port of call, by luck more than design. It was good to sit for a while in the peace and quiet and plan the rest of my walking.
The entry to the old town was through St Michael’s Gate. It was easy not to be tempted by the very touristy shops along the narrow Michalska, however, I could not pass the Honey Shop.
While sipping Honey wine there (free sample) I did most of my presie shopping there.
Just around the corner, I discovered one of the Christmas Markets. Very atmospheric, a square full of stalls, some crafts but mostly eats and drinks. Brian recommended the Tatra Tea – would certainly warm the cockles of your heart, but pretty strong!!!!
I missed the text from Travel Dep that about venue for dinner – so seated myself in the hotel dining room – no worries: I was served a lovely Slovakian dinner and wine (€25).
Day 2
Our guide met us in the hotel lobby next morning and surprised us with the news we would have a coach tour around the city. The promised walking tour would follow.
We drove along the Danube stopping first at Slavín. Designed by Ján Svetlík, the site consists of a staircase, a cemetery with graves of 6,845 Soviet soldiers who fell while liberating Bratislava from the Nazis at the end of WW2 and a central solemn hall with various statues, inscriptions, a symbolic sarcophagus made of white marble, a 42 m high obelisk topped with a statue of a Soviet soldier, and on the outside walls are inscriptions of the dates of liberation of various places in Slovakia during 1944–45.
Our next stop was Bratislava Castle, built in 9th century. It stands on the hill above Danube river at the crossroads of ancient routes going back to the Stone and Bronze ages. Built as a fortress in the 9th century, it provided protection from Tartars and Magyars; it staged the coronation of eleven kings and eight queens and became a residence in the time of the Habsburgs.
Our walking tour began beside St Martin’s Cathedral. Bratislava is probably one of the few cities in Europe where there is little reference to the Holocaust. Bratislava was the main seat of Jewish learning over the centuries and it is this that is celebrated with the Chatham Soper Memorial. Also the Jewish quarter was demolished to build the SNP Bridge. However Pamataj, a memorial to the plaque near St Martin’s Cathedral
Christmas Tree Forest was a fascinating idea – a collection of trees decorated by various schools around Slovakia, which will be donated to charities on Christmas Eve.
A Slovakian Bakery – to which I returned, to sample traditional cake and coffee. Minimum €13 spend and so worth it.
Vintage shops – great bargains to be had but not for a 10kg traveller and maybe just as well.
The Blue Church – way off the beaten track and not mentioned at all by our guide; actually she was surprised that I knew of it.
Street sculptures
After all the market snacking, I didn’t need a dinner this evening
DAY 3
After breakfast this morning, I hit for the Cathedral for Sunday Mass. It’s wonderful to listen to a language that bears no resemblance western European languages – you truly just enjoy the music of the sounds. It was also interesting to see so many young people participating in the ceremonies, in word and song.
It was gorgeous to stroll along the Danube on Sunday morning and watch the joggers, dog walkers, families, etc share the sunny Sunday morning. I stopped at one of the riverside restaurants for breakfast and to people watch. My destination was the Eurovia Gallery, a massive shopping centre.
Hana Exhibition in the Town Hall – the life story of an amazing woman from 18th Century – a mother, a housewife, a craft maker, a writer and poet, an agent for social change. This was a wonderful exhibition.
I listened to Christmas carols outside the Town Hall by children from a village school in the Tatra mountains.
I joined the “tour people” for dinner this evening – just to be sociable. Lovely traditional dinner.
DAY 4
Home
