Day 1 Thurs 12th June
Memorial Museum, Passchendaele & Menin Gate Memorial
We arrived in Brussels Airport just after 9am and met with our fellow travelers (15) and our guide Iain.
We had a (very) lengthy intro to WW1 on the bus as we travelled to the towns of Zonnebeke and Passchendaele. I had read a little about the Salient, the 1st, 2nd and 3rd battles of Ypres and the importance of the ridges but it’s not really until you see the topography that you realise what much of it means. The ridges are barely visible and yet control of them was crucial.
This knowledge is presented in the Military Memorial Museum (LEFT CAMERA ON BUS SO NO PHOTOS) which is devoted to the Battle of Passchendaele (also known as the 3rd battle of Ypres). The museum is housed in a restored chateau surrounded by the most beautiful grounds. I walked through the “Trench Experience” on my own, perhaps the best way to capture the experience. I also liked the underground gallery which concentrated on remembrance – with many letters and videos of veteran memories.
During the British attack of 1917, there were 500,000 casualties in a 100 days for a gain of 5 miles of territory. Passchendaele became an international symbol of senseless military violence in its most cruel form.
We were all delighted to get to the hotel to shower and rest after our early start in Dublin.
Last Post at the Menin Gate
The evening cooled slightly and I hit for the Menin Gate early enough to get a “good viewing spot”. Winston Churchill actually wanted the town of Ypres to be left in ruins as a memorial to the million men who fought in the Salient. The people of Ypres had a different idea and began to rebuild their homes. It was agreed that a memorial arch would be constructed at the Menin Road exit from Ypres, a road that tens of thousands of soldiers had taken on their way to trenches. The names of almost 55.000 missing soldiers are inscribed on the walls.
At exactly 8pm the MC called for silence and one of our group Andy gave the opening address:
They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them.
You could hear a pin drop and then every one answered: “We will remember them”. In this stillness, the “Last Post” is sounded in honour of the lost soldiers. You could not but be moved by this tribute to courage and self-sacrifice of almost an entire generation – more than soldiers, they were fathers, brothers, sons.
Lovely restaurant on the square with outdoor eating attracted me and I had a delicious Scampi all’aglio with Pinot Grigiot. Imelda and Breda from tour were also there and they told me about the Irish memorial to the soldiers of Munster at the Cathedral – so I strolled up there after dinner.lovely to see the bit of Gaeilge!
